The intention of this project is to use and protect a digital curve tracer, and this EICO 666 seems just ideal for it. Reason is, the wiring inside is well done, normal, and accessible. So not such weird circuits like Hickok uses, and they combine it with the spaghetti cable mess. So with the EICO 666 you have a normal electrical ground, and sapce, and wires with colors that make sense. In fact this whole tester works logicial, and it seems just made by normal people. From the EICO 666, I can tap quite easily the connections for the Plate, Screen, Control Grid an Cathode, whereas I can conveniently leave in the heater cicruit and all sockets, and the shorts + leakage pre-testing circuit with it's power supply. I had to choose between a Hikco, or any other tester, but the Hicoks are so crazy build at the inside, this hurts only to look at that spaghetti. Also the EICO 666 has a metal housing, so that will be easy to check on Hickok how it was stored. If you see a lot of rust at the outside, that unveils it's storage condition. Unlike hickoks with wooden case, that might have been stored humid, with fungus damage at the inside, and a shiny layer of black shoe wax on the outside, for selling it nicely on Ebay. So with the EICO 666 I feel a lot more confident, as I want to use this as a laboratry tester.
The intention is to have following advantages. So let's see if it all works out, during this project, I will just file it here, as I progress.
The way to use it, is like this:
Not Recommended testers look like this. Avoid like monkey plague. You can recognize them by the characteristic row of small switches.
Not so for the EICO 666, which looks the same perhaps, but not when you look more in detail. You will see here, the flip swithches have SIX positions instead of only FOUR. Even so with the EICO 666 you can connect each of the 9 tube pins and plate cap to: Anode, Screen, Control Grid, Cathode, Heater or Ground.
The EICO 666 uses a realistic test circuit, and also is able to connect almost any tube, and use any heater voltage there is, also 4V European. So this makes me happy. With that in mind, I bought a relatively cheap EICO 666 on Ebay. Bids started with 100$ and I was the only bidder.
What you need t to know, these testers wer offered as factory wired products, or as a kit, and when you buy it, you don't know which version you are getting. If it was a kit version, I think I would have sold it again, as generally quality inside sich testers is not nice. Well mine seems factory made, so that was a lucky beginning. Also it was never worked on before, as I could see from the deck screws.
After switching it on, basically it worked. Problem seemed however it begins to hum badly when I adjust the mains to the "LINE ADJ" mark, and I need to set it all the way to maximum even though I use 115V, and still I can not get the needls on the "LINE ADJ" mark. (Rather 93V should require the maximum setting) Well, this is a defect. So I set the mains adjustment potentiometer
So that's why it was sold. Probably there is more, but this part we know.
THINGS TO DO NOW:
Check the meter.
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