A few Questions on how to use a Funke W19

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A few Questions on how to use a Funke W19

Postby papsdoc » Tue Nov 13, 2012 10:42 am

Good Morning,


I recently purchased a tube Tester Funke W19 fully reconditionned and calibrated, with all the cards and user's handbook: it works well. But as you know everything related with the tester except the front page of the user's manual is " nur auf Deutch". Although I have some notions of the Goethe's language, I'm not fluent enough to fully understand the text.
So as you can imagine I have a few points to clarify, mainly related with the location of the sockets and with a few cards and then:
> Question 1: I understand that to test a double noval triode like an ECC83, I need to use two cards, one per triode; then where to plug the tube in the sockets ? On the left hand part of my W19 there are two noval sockets: it seems that I need to plug the tube on the one the closest to the galvanometer to test the first triode with the first card, then change the card for the second cart, unplug the tube from the socket and plug it in the most on the left noval socket, and then finally test the second triode. Do you think this is normal? Where is it described in the manual ?
> Question 2 : I understand that there is only one card to test power pentodes such as EL34, 6550 (card 308). Here again, there are two possible sokets: from the arrow on the card, I understand that I need to use the socket on the left end side. Right ? Then my question is related with the test point written on the card:
- Heating : 6.3V, 1.5 A
- Anode voltage : 200V,
- G1 voltage : -2V et 0V (for the slope),
- G2 voltage : 60V,
- G3 voltage : 0.
I have difficulty to relate these conditions with the curves of the EL34 for instance, in particular the G3 voltage of 60V. Any explanations? Also, what to think to use these conditions for a 6550 or a KT88, KT 66 or KT77 ?
For instance, the test conditions indicated on the test card n°308 for the EL34 or 6550 tubes seem very strange to say the least, in particular Vg2 = 60V. Any ideas ?
> Question 3 : I have also difficulties to understand the abbreviations used by Mr. Muller in the very useful PDF file included in the site of JacMusic: for instance, for the first card to test the ECC83 what is the meaning of "(TN)" and "No=F23" ?
> Question 4 : I also have the special cards to check the voltages and the intensities. But I don't understand how to use them? Do I need a voltage generator, for instance ?

Also when testing a double triode tube like the ECC83, 2 cards are needed; so far, no problem, but on my tester ther are 2 noval sockets located both in the lower part on the left: to test the tube, I need to use one socket for one card to measure one triode, then change the card, unplug the tube from the first socket and plug it in the second socket (the one most on the left) to measure the second triode. Do you think this is normal? Where is it described in the manual ? I have also difficulties to understand the abbreviations used by Mr. Muller in the very useful PDF file included in your site: for instance, for the first card to test the ECC83 what is the meaning of "(TN)" and "No=F23" ?

A lot of questions, but here in France, nobody is able to help me !!!

Thank you in advance to clarify these points.

Vincent
papsdoc
 
Posts: 4
Joined: Tue Nov 13, 2012 10:37 am

Re: A few Questions on how to use a Funke W19

Postby wilee2q » Tue Nov 13, 2012 12:24 pm

Hi, W19 is a perfect tester!

There is only ONE noval socket. The other you see has 10pins.

For EL34 etc, the arrow points in the direction of the socket. Not so EXACTLY, but clear to see and and you can't go wrong.

Test conditions, you can check them with tube curves, if you can find the curves somewhere. But what are you looking for, what do you expect to find, and how will you compare it? Suppose by a specific curve point, a tube must draw a certian current. Suppose you have a tester that can reproduce those settings, and you when you plug in a tube, you find not the same current of course. Then what? Is the tube bad? Or not? You don't know! So you probably take some "self made" criteria, and they are probably wrong, because you don't know.

Better is to use the W19 good-bad marking on the meter. Made by professionals, with a selection of known to be good and bad tubes. "Good starts from ...." That is what you need to know. The theory behind Emission testing is very difficult, but basically use the tube as a diode, and try to pull higher plate current than normal for the voltage. So at quite low G2, and G1=0. (That is why they say not to let the tubes run continious). Now that test is hard for an old tube, and this separates the weak from the strong. Some tests draw 3mA from an ECC83, which is a 250V 1.2mA tube, but they do so at lower plate voltage. That picks out the weak ones.

So when you are looking for a reliable way to test a tube for good/bad. That's the W19. They go for 700..1400€ on Ebay and that is with good reason. There is no better one ever made.

When are want to analyse workpoints, and when you have detailed knowledge about how to interprete results (whatever you need that for....) the W20 is the one. For tube quality ( good/bad ) testing, the W19 is better.
wilee2q
 
Posts: 3
Joined: Tue Nov 13, 2012 8:52 am

Re: A few Questions on how to use a Funke W19

Postby papsdoc » Wed Nov 14, 2012 5:45 pm

Hi Wilee,

Thank you for the clarification.
Now, another question:I need to test 7355 power pentodes (for a A500 Harman Kardon amplifier). This pentode is very similar to an EL34, but the pins are different:
> Pin2 = Heater (6.3V),
> Pin3 = Plate,
> Pin5 = Cathode & beam plate,
> Pin6 = Grid number1,
> Pin7 = Heater,
> Pin8=Grid number 2 (screen).

I don't have the card to test this tube and I don't know how to configure the needles in the holes of the Funke to get the right voltages on the right pins of the tube under test.

Any advice from the experts ?

Thank you in advance

Vincent
papsdoc
 
Posts: 4
Joined: Tue Nov 13, 2012 10:37 am

Re: A few Questions on how to use a Funke W19

Postby wilee2q » Fri Nov 16, 2012 9:12 am

Look at the pin board without a card on it, and you will ALREADY see the connections. In addition, use the schematic of the tester. Do not try to understand the schematic, try only to understand only the pin connections. This is more or less clear by itself. Certainly the tester can do the connections, after all it is universal. Unless the tube is connected kind of crazy, but why should it be. When it all works, take the EL34 card, change it with Photoshop, and there is your new card :)
wilee2q
 
Posts: 3
Joined: Tue Nov 13, 2012 8:52 am


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